Sold: Jewellery, a Dazzling Sale on April 20, 2023

PARIS – On Thursday, April 20, Victoire Winckler, Director of the Jewellery Department, and Jean-Norbert Salit, expert for Tajan, unveiled a glittering selection of precious stones, signed jewellery and family heirlooms. With more than a hundred bidders on the phone and 350 bidders on the internet, passionate amateurs and collectors from all over the world came to attend this sale, which totalled just over €1,522,054*.

Art Deco pieces from the 1930s were very successful, notably Van Cleef & Arpels with a rare, resolutely modern red jasper ‘target’ clip that sold for €32,800* (lot 47). The strength and simplicity of René Boivin’s style appealed to bidders, with an important clasp going for €39,360* (lot 49), a delicate bracelet selling for €47,232* (lot 50) and a superb “four bodies” ring set with yellow sapphires auctioning for €28,864* (lot 182).

Cartier’s Collectibles were on display with both striking and elegant pieces. A pair of lapel clips featuring the “DAME DE COEUR” and the “ROI DE COEUR” sold for €29,520* (lot 42), while a “Belle Epoque” clock went for €25,978* (lot 43). Finally, the iconic panther mounted in a ring entirely paved with diamonds and sapphires fetched €34,112* (lot 65).

Precious stones were in the spotlight with a brilliant-cut diamond of 3.49 carats in a beautiful F colour, which auctioned for €64,288* (lot 56) and another 12.01 carat diamond, M, VS2, sold for €120,704*, while an exceptional 15.97 carat oval Burmese sapphire, unheated, set in a Cartier mount, totalled €131,200* (lot 184).

Finally, time suspended in a breathtaking bidding battle for a Colombian emerald weighing approximately 4.70 carats that reached €150,880* (lot 187).

*Price with buyer’s premium


Do you wish to appraise and auction your precious stones, signed jewellery and family jewellery? Our Jewellery Department carries out free appraisals by appointment, in our offices in Paris or in the place of your choice, in complete confidentiality.

To make an appointment, please contact Victoire Winckler, Director of our Jewellery & Watches Department, Director to our Jewellery & Watches Department, [email protected] – +33 (0)1 53 30 30 66


From Art Deco To the 1940s




Rare red jasper “Target” clip
Crowned by a red jasper fin on a black enamelled target and underlined by brilliant-cut diamonds (TA).
Mounted in 18K yellow gold and platinum. French work signed Van Cleef et Arpels and numbered.
Gross weight: 17,77 gr.
Dimensions: 6,4 x 1,8 cm.



“In 1931, Van Cleef & Arpels took part in the Colonial Exhibition, which was held in the Bois de Vincennes. France was in the midst of an economic slump after the crisis of 1929. The jewellery section brought together twenty-three jewellers who presented jewellery inspired by African and Oriental art, made from exotic materials. Van Cleef & Arpels unveils the Chapeau chinois gold set and a necklace made of ivory balls engraved with coral balls. The sets reproduced in the press show a resolutely modern, even constructivist party, with sharp colours, different geometric forms associated and even intertwined. The few sets of this type that have come down to us bear witness to this particular type of jewellery, quite different from the jewellery usually created by the house. “

Van Cleef & Arpels, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, L’art de la Haute Joaillerie, p.42


Estimate: €10,000 / €12,000
Sold for €32,800 (with buyer’s premium)




ƒƒ RENÉ BOIVIN – YEARS 1927-1933
Important amethyst clip
It consists of a vermeil bow adorned with oval amethysts of different shades in a paillon setting. Double-clip system in 18K pink gold. Master stamp of the House of René Boivin, after a design by Suzanne Belperron.
Gross weight: 72.82 g.
Dimensions: 7.8 x 6.5 cm


Estimate: €20,000 / 30,000
Sold for €39,360 (with buyer’s premium)



ƒƒ RENÉ BOIVIN – YEARS 1927-1933
Exceptional “Barbarian” amethyst bracelet
Adorned with oval amethysts in a paillon setting. Mounting with scrolls and gilded silver clasps. Marked by René Boivin.
Gross weight: 96,73 gr.
Dimensions: 18,9 x 3,7 cm.
Reference: “René Boivin Joaillier” Françoise Cailles, Editions de l’Amateur, Paris 1994, page 67 to illustrate this large family of barbaric jewellery.


Estimate: 20 000 / 30 000€
Sold for €47,232 (with buyer’s premium)



From the same private collection, these two pieces of jewellery in vermeil and amethysts tell us the beautiful story of the “René Boivin style”. Whenever I have been asked about the identity of this style, it is very often this type of jewellery made of simple materials with expressive and elegant shapes that comes to my mind.

There are two sources of inspiration for these jewelleries: mrs. Jeanne Boivin and her pronounced interest for the Antique and Medieval taste and that of her great draughtswoman Mrs. Suzanne Belperron who knew how to capture the vibration of abstract art and to associate it with the productions of ethnic art.

Indeed, this medieval bracelet is a tribute to the Assyrian, Celtic and Merovingian jewels forming the great family of “barbarian jewels”, while the important horn clip in amethysts is a masterly reinvention of the African jewel, undoubtedly inspired by a Beninese bracelet.




Cartier Collectibles





“Belle Époque” clock
Blue-grey agate clock with a Louis XVI sheath base
Two chiselled laurel belts, four silver guilloché panels and translucent blue and white enamel. Framed in engraved rose gold. Small silver drum box. The caseband is guilloché with dots and translucent blue enamel. Four round silver dials with radiating guilloches and translucent blue enamel. White enamel hour circle with Roman numerals. Platinum hands and rose-cut diamonds. Original movement, numbered under the base.
Dimensions: 20,7 x 5,2 x 5,2 cm.
Original CARTIER case Paris London.
Reference: “Le temps de Cartier”, Bracca, Negretti, p.33 for a similar model.
“La Collection Cartier -Horlogerie”, Flammarion 2006, p. 60-61 for another almost identical example dated 1908.
“The Magical Art of Cartier, Tajan et Antiquarum”, 1996 Geneva for yet another example dated 1910.


Estimate: €20,000 / €30,000
Sold for €25,978 (with buyer’s premium)





Pair of reverse clips “DAME DE COEUR” & “ROI DE CŒUR”
Represented carrying a flower for the Queen, a sword for the King. The crowns are enhanced with rose-cut diamonds. Mounted in 18K yellow gold, enamel and rose-cut diamonds. Work signed and numbered. Engraved with registered design and protection numbers in France, England and USA.
Gross weight: 32,12 gr.
Dimensions: 3,5 x 3,1 cm.
Accompanied by a period advertisement from Vogue FRANCE magazine of December 1938.
Reference: “Etourdissant Cartier” by Nadine Colero, Editions du Regard, Paris, 2008, page 49 for a pair of identical clips.


Estimate: €18,000 / €20,000
Sold for €29,520 (with buyer’s premium)




The 1950s-1970s





Oval sapphire ring 15.97 carats
The ring is set with an oval sapphire in a châton à griffes shape. The setting is in platinum and baguette diamonds. Signed “Monture Cartier”.
Gross weight: 10.46 g.
Finger size: 53.5.
Sapphire dimensions: 15.78 x 12.01 x 9.92 mm.
SSEF analysis report, according to its opinion: origin Burma, no trace of heat treatment.
GEM Paris analysis report, in its opinion: origin Burma, no trace of heat treatment.


Estimate: €100,000 / €150,000
Sold for €131,200 (with buyer’s premium)




Diamonds and precious stones





The ring is set with a brilliant-cut diamond in a clawed setting with two baguette diamonds. The ring is set in platinum.
Gross weight: 4.34 g.
Finger size: 49.
Diamond weight: 3.49 carats.
Preliminary examination by LFG, stating in its opinion: F colour, VS1 clarity, no fluorescence.


Estimate: €32,000 / €40,000
Sold for €64,288 (with buyer’s premium)





Emerald and diamond ring
The ring is set with a rectangular clawed emerald with cut sides, set with troïdias diamonds. Set in 18K yellow gold.
Gross weight: 5.93 g.
Finger size: 56.5 (worn edges and very small chips).
Dimensions of the emerald: 12,74 x 10,34 x 4,96 mm.
Weight of the emerald: 4.50 to 4.70 carats approximately.
LFG report, in his opinion: Colombian origin, slight presence of a colourless substance in the cracks (oil).


Estimate: €4,000 / €5,000
Sold for €150,880 (with buyer’s premium)





12.01 carat diamond solitaire ring
The ring is set with a brilliant-cut diamond (TA) in a clawed bezel. The setting is in platinum, the openwork basket with interlacing decoration.
Gross weight: 7.97 g.
Finger size: 54.
Preliminary examination by LFG: M colour, VS2 clarity, low fluorescence.


Estimate: €70,000 / €80,000
Sold €120,704 (buyer’s premium)




Private collection of Mrs D.





“Quatre corps” ring yellow sapphires
It is composed of four rings set with lines of five round yellow sapphires in an oval setting and arranged in a staggered pattern. Work of René BOIVIN, signed René Boivin and numbered.
Gross weight: 15,22 gr.
Finger size: 55/56.
Attestation of Madame Françoise Cailles and attestation of Jean-Norbert Salit.
Several examples of this famous ring are reproduced in the book “René Boivin” by Françoise Cailles, Éditions de l’Amateur, Paris, 1994.


Estimate: €20,000 / €30,000
Sold for €28,864 (with buyer’s premium)



Without a doubt, the genius of this ring, designed and elaborated at the end of the 1940s, lies in the incredible life of the precious stones used, thanks to invisible inclinations and articulations worthy of a great architect. It remains one of the timeless models of the René BOIVIN House, the one entitled by Françoise Cailles “L’atelier des dames”.




From the 1980s to the present day





CARTIER – 1990’S
This ring features a semi-reclining panther with its head in profile, entirely paved with brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon sapphires. The eyes are made of navette emeralds and the nose of cut onyx. Platinum mounting. French work signed Cartier and numbered.
Gross weight: 13.75 g.
Finger size: 52.5.
Case and Cartier invoice.


Estimate: €20,000 / 30,000
Sold for €34,112 (with buyer’s premium)






Click here to view the results online



Victoire Winckler | Director of the Jewellery and Watchmaking Department
[email protected] – +33 1 53 30 30 66

Alix Ricard | Jewellery Specialist
[email protected] – +33 1 53 30 30 29